How To Clean Black Shiny Deposit On Chimney Flue
Creosote Deposits & Fire Hazards in Chimneys
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All well-nigh chimney creosote: cause, cure, prevention, chimney creosote & chimney cleaning advice:
This article describes the formation of creosote in woods-burning heating appliances such as woodstoves and fireplaces and gives communication on reducing the fire risk.
Creosote deposits accrue in all types of chimneys - masonry, or metallic, where wood burning appliances are vented.
Creosote is flammable and if it is set up afire the resulting chimney fire is extremely hot. Roaring like a freight train, a chimney fire can cook through even a well-built "safe" chimney, setting the building on burn down.
We also provide an Article INDEX for this topic, or yous can endeavour the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX equally a quick mode to detect information you need.
Check Chimneys for Creosote Deposits - a Serious Fire Hazard
Definition of Creosote
Creosote is a black, oily wood-tar condensate that forms in chimneys over fireplaces or woodstoves is a blackness tarry condensate that forms inside of chimneys and flues when burning forest in fireplaces and woodstoves.
Carson Dunlop Associate's Sketch at left shows common areas where creosote forms in a fireplace chimney. [Click to enlarge whatsoever image]
Creosote is a significant take chances in all wood-burning appliances (such every bit wood stoves) and can also form in other heaters.
Spotter out: creosote will burn at a very high temperature - it is combustible. That's why creosote deposits gamble a dangerous chimney fire.
Creosote, in the form of coal tar, is chemically similar to wood-tar (but not identical) but is formed in bituminous coal or lignite coal-burning appliances. Creosote is also be formed by called-for peat, and fifty-fifty fuel oils such as domicile heating oil.
Creosote tar, a natural byproduct of burning organic-based fuels (wood, coal, peat), is carried into the chimney as a vapor in the fume. But this creosote tar vapor condenses as a liquid on to the cooler chimney sides as fume passes up the chimney and flue.
As the creosote deposits absurd they harden to a shiny black coating that tin can be difficult to remove, peculiarly if the creosote deposits are left over a period of time.
Creosote will continue to accrue on chimney surfaces until it is removed by i of the methods we draw below.
How & When does a Creosote Burn Ignite in a Chimney?
Watch out: One of the most common and serious fire hazards in chimneys occurs when deposits of creosote build up on the chimney interior are later set on fire.
A serious chimney burn can occur regardless of the chimney type: masonry, metal, insulated metallic, etc.
Our photograph (left) shows a abode damaged by a business firm fire: a chimney fire originated at a chimney venting a woodstove.
The owners were away and a house-sitter made a overnice hot fire in the woodstove.
The fire ignited at a metal chimney (not shown, around the right corner of the home in the photograph), spread through the attic roof, and burned back downwardly the building.
A creosote-based chimney fire occurs when an accumulated deposit of creosote is ignited by a hotter-than-usual fire below.
Once ignited, the deposits of creosote burn down at very high temperature, so hot, in fact, that depending on the amount of creosote that is burning, a runaway chimney fire occurs, making a audio similar a roaring freight train. A chimney burn damages the chimney leaving information technology unsafe, and worse, there is a high risk of setting the building itself on burn down.
The chances that a chimney burn down will occur depend on the corporeality of accumulated creosote deposits, its location, and the temperature of fires being ignited below.
The take chances that a chimney fire will ignite the edifice on fire also depend on the chimney condition, materials, construction, building materials, and nigh important as well, the fire clearances that were maintained when the building and chimney were synthetic.
For details encounter our FIRE CLEARANCE articles linked at the MORE READING recommendations at bottom of this article.
What Determines the Rate of Creosote Build-up in a Chimney? Causes of Creosote Trouble:
.
Photograph above: a wood stove thermometer placed on the flue vent connector between a woodstove and the masonry chimney.
The temperature is in the grey surface area - besides cool. Burning forest in this temperature range - under 250 °F invites the dangerous formation of creosote deposits.
Photo below: with some attempt nosotros got the temperature of this forest stove up to a safety operating level to avert forming more than creosote in the chimney.
Operating the wood stove for a half hour or more than each twenty-four hour period at this temperature should significantly reduce the rate of creosote accumulation and volition burn-off the worst of deposits that formed as the forest stove was first ignited and was getting up to operating temperature.
The rate of creosote build-upwards in a chimney depends on these factors:
- The temperatures in the chimney or flue: A long depression-smoldering wood fire produces more than creosote than a hotter faster-burning wood fire.
That'due south because called-for wood at a lower temperature results in more than incomplete combustion of the wood itself. Incomplete combustion of a fuel results in a higher level of off-gassing of incompletely burned chemicals in gaseous grade, including, in the case of wood fires, wood-tar.
Watch out: your forest stove or coal stove manufacturer will provide the recommended operating temperature range for the apparatus.
Typically the chimney flue temperatures should exist between 300°F and 400°F.
According to the thermometer'south "Best Operation" scale shown here, you tin can run your woodstove between 250°F and 450°F.
Likewise cool ways rapid creosote formation. Likewise hot also increases the run a risk of a chimney burn by threatening to ignite creosote deposits or by exceeding the temperature ratings of the chimney.
span class="RedText">Lookout Out: TOO HOT (the red expanse on the wood stove thermometer) means you are likely to set any creosote deposits on fire, risking a dangerous chimney fire.
You may likewise exceed the temperatures handled by the fire clearance recommendations of the manufacturer and of your local edifice codes.
Very high woodstove operating temperatures (over near 470 °F) may also cause metal fatigue, dissentious the stove, causing cracking, making the stove or metal flue or metal chimney parts unsafe.
Details virtually where to place the woodstove thermometer are
at WOODSTOVE THERMOMETER LOCATION - simply beneath.
- Level of usage: The frequency of wood/coal fires and the amount of forest or coal burned
- The wood-sap content of the wood existence burned. Light-green wood that has not cured contains more sap and produces more than forest tar than thoroughly-dried firewood.
- Moisture content of the wood existence burned. Forest, even woods that is well seasoned, should be protected from rain and snow. If the wood is wet it will burn down more slowly and will create more creosote in the chimney.
- The forest species (or to a smaller caste the type of coal or peat) being burned.
- The chimney size, height, location, and structure materials serving the heating appliance.
Cool chimney surfaces in a large masonry chimney venting a very small wood-fire will cause more creosote to condense on the chimney sides at a faster rate than a smaller chimney flue with better draft and warmer surfaces.
Hither are details:
- Chimney flue size: a chimney flue that is too big for the heating appliance may neglect to develop adequate draft, further increasing creosote deposition.
Installing a wood-stove insert or coal stove insert into an older fireplace and masonry chimney may event in a chimney that is likewise big to properly vent the new heater.
- Unlined flues: a professional woodstove installer may insist on re-lining the chimney past one of several methods, such as by installing a smaller-diameter chimney flue liner upwards the entire height of the chimney.
At installations we made nosotros also sealed the lesser of the big original chimney flue at the base (around the new smaller flue insert) and poured a non-combustible insulation around the new flue liner (vermiculite).
- Chimney location: a chimney constructed on an outside wall of the building, whether masonry or metal, will exist cooler than a chimney routed through the building interior.
- Chimney height: a tall chimney improves draft at the fire once information technology has become fully heated, but may have longer to warm sufficiently, collecting creosote in its libation upper length.
Lookout man out: In some cases, such as a home venting only a gas fired water heater into an older masonry flue, the heating appliance never was able to heat the chimney sufficiently to cause acceptable draft, leading to unsafe carbon monoxide gas escape into the building.
This carbon monoxide run a risk can also occur with coal stoves or even a woodstove.
- Metal flue chimneys and vents, particularly single-wall flue vent connectors tend to be cooler and to collect creosote faster than warmer, insulated metal flues.
- Chimney cap: a chimney cap not only prevents pelting from entering (and perchance damaging) the chimney, it improves draft and prevents downdrafts - conditions that can increment the rate of creosote formation.
Sentry out: using an un-listed decorative chimney top shroud is inviting a unsafe chimney fire.
at CHIMNEY SHROUD Burn nosotros depict a fire damage ascribed to an un-listed chimney top decorative shroud on a forest frame chimney chase top at a home in Moorpark CA.
- Chimney cleanout openings: a masonry fireplace and chimney often includes an ash pit cleanout door below the fireplace. If this door is left open the outcome is reduced draft in the chimney (and a burn hazard).
- Forest-framed chimney chase (to enclose a factory-built chimney assembly) construction, materials, burn blocking, code compliance:
see CHIMNEY CHASE CONSTRUCTION for details.
- Chimney flue size: a chimney flue that is too big for the heating appliance may neglect to develop adequate draft, further increasing creosote deposition.
- Adequacy of combustion air supply: but as a flue that is also large to heat up and properly vent the wood or coal stove venting into it, if the heater has inadequate combustion air the result will be incomplete combustion of the fuel and a higher creosote product rate.
- Anything else that affects chimney draft. Slowing the chimney draft, such as past closing a damper in a woodstove flue, increases the residence time of the smoke in the flue, increasing the charge per unit of creosote deposition.
- The frequency of chimney cleaning and the thickness of existing creosote deposits.
As creosote builds upward inside of a chimney or flue, its thickness reduces the internal dimensions of the chimney, thus reducing draft, thus slowing the combustion rate of the fire below still more.
As the combustion rate slows, it becomes notwithstanding less complete, thus producing creosote at an increasing charge per unit. In other word, a dirty chimney with a thick deposit of creosote causes more creosote to be formed and deposited at a withal faster rate.
Where to Locate the Woodstove Thermometer
This photo shows the woodstove whose temperature we were monitoring on its thermometer shown above.
This thermometer had lost its magnet - information technology would non mount on the vertical chimney flue vent connector so it found a new habitation atop the horizontal portion of the flue (orangish pointer).
Really if the temperature that yous're trying to monitor is the flue temperature, placing the thermometer as close to the chimney thimble equally you can volition give a more than-accurate idea of chimney temperatures (red arrow).
Green arrows in the photo marker typical locations for woodstove thermometers in many articles we reviewed.
Often people put the thermometer xviii" up the flue from the woodstove top.
Some stove manufacturers recommend placing the stove-temperature-monitoring thermometer correct on any of the four corners of the woodstove top.
However even those four corners may give very unlike temperature readings.
In sum, you may desire to apply two thermometers:
- a thermometer placed at the chimney thimble to monitor the temperature of flue gases entering the chimney
- a second thermometer atop or close to the top of the woodstove itself to monitor the stove for dangerously-high temperatures
Spotter out: also that these woodstove thermometers are not necessarily accurate; further, the temperature that you read will vary significantly depending on where the thermometer is placed. IF your dwelling house oven thermometer is accurate you may exist able to calibrate your woodstove thermometer by placing in your oven set to 400 °F.
Ultimately you should follow the thermometer placement instructions from the manufacturer of your specific woodstove or pellet stove.
Our photograph above illustrates extensive fire damage to a domicile by fire originating not in a chimney but in the home's kitchen. The apply of burn down-retardant plywood in the roof was credited with slowing the fire'south spread to the rest of the home.
How to spot a creosote problem in the chimney & what to practice about it

Sentinel out: a chimney fire that has ignited creosote burns very hot, sounds like a roaring freight railroad train, and tin can burn down downwardly the edifice
. If yous encounter these conditions yous need to get everyone out of the building and y'all demand to call the burn department immediately. If information technology is possible to safely close down air supply to the chimney that might help but your first priority is saving lives.
In January 2022 our buddy Paul G. reported having successfully detected and removed a creosote problem in a woodstove just in time before recent very cold weather and just before a predicted record blizzard in New York.
Lighting the forest stove Paul observed that the stove was smoking from various leak points at the chimney connections and at various wood stove openings.
Outside he saw that some smoke was coming from the wood stove'southward chimney height but inside the stove was smoking and draft (a match at the air intake) was poor.
Paul shut down the forest stove air supply immediately.
When the fire had cooled enough to safely do so he finished extinguishing the fire by carefully spraying a scrap of water onto the coals. He waited a bit because he knew that doing this while a wood stove is hot could make matters worse by causing breakage or even exploding parts.
When the fire was out in the wood stove Paul was able to check the chimney top closely: undaunted by being an former guy in his eighty's he clambered upwards onto the snow-covered roof to check the woods-stove chimney.
There he saw that the spark screen was mostly occluded by creosote.
Removing the cap gave admission to clean the flue - ash and creosote vicious down the woods stove flue into the top of the forest stove where information technology was removed and saved for me.
Paul didn't have a proper chimney cleaning brush kit (see the chimney castor nautical chart at beneath left) and so he banged on the metal flue until the creosote and crud fell into the wood stove.
See CHIMNEY CLEANING PROCEDURES
When the forest stove chimney was clean it was inspected for safety and deemed usable.
The wood stove itself needed further attention besides. The observation of smoke coming out of wood stove section joints told Paul that the cement sealant at those joints needed to be replaced.
Watch out: leaks at wood stove section joints as well every bit leaks at a wood stove door due to a lost or worn gasket tin can make typhoon control incommunicable - this is a very dangerous situation.
The event can be a runaway wood stove fire overheating the stove or chimney to unsafe temperatures and perhaps igniting a creosote chimney in the flue or fifty-fifty burning downwards the building.
Or burning up the building. Anyway the aforementioned gaps that let smoke out of the wood stove (because the flue was blocked with creosote) permit excess air into the wood stove in other weather, making it dangerous.
In our photo (below left) creosote is leaking out of this chimney on the upper floor of a pre-1900 home.
Inside the chimney, creosote looks like a black shiny deposit, sometimes with a bubbly or knobby rounded surface. It tin can be spotted at the chimney top from outside and it may be seen by looking upward into the flue from inside the building.
Watch out: Beware that because creosote is deposited more than heavily where the chimney is cooler, a chimney that looks pretty make clean just to a higher place a fireplace or woodstove may still exist unsafe.
Information technology is just about impossible for a homeowner to thoroughly audit the entire within of a chimney or flue, just yous tin inspect the lower chimney from inside the building, and the chimney top can be inspected from exterior if you have safe on-roof access.
If you see a thick eolith of creosote, a deposit that looks thicker than a elementary "dusting" of 1/8" or less on the chimney surface, y'all should have the chimney inspected and cleaned.
Even if you exercise not see a thick creosote eolith, if y'all are making regular use of a woodstove or fireplace the chimney should be inspected for rubber and cleaned no less than in one case a year. And if y'all've never had your chimney inspected or cleaned we recommend that you do so before continuing its utilize.
Afterwards the beginning inspection and cleaning, and based on the accumulated creosote found and your frequency of use of the chimney, you and your chimney professional will be able to have a more than clear opinion about how often your chimney needs cleaning.
Creosote odors in buildings: causes & cures
You lot may smell a chemical odor that is traced to a chimney or fireplace when that system is not in use, typically in the leap and summer and during wet conditions.
Water entering the chimney from the top (leaks, or a bad or missing cap) or moisture condensation forming inside the flue tin can dissolve some of the creosote deposits leading to an smell.
A downdraft through the chimney brings those odors into the dwelling. Have the chimney inspected and cleaned and close the damper when the chimney is not in use.
Come across ODORS GASES SMELLS, DIAGNOSIS & CURE for assist in tracking down and curing smells or odors in buildings.
How to Forbid Creosote Chimney Fires
- If you are new to the building, have the chimney (and fireplace or woodstove) inspected for safe earlier use. Inquire for a Level-1 inspection every bit divers by NFPA 211.[4] You can find a qualified chimney professional through the Chimney Rubber Institute CSIA [3] or the National Chimney Sweeps Order (NCSG) [vii].
- Make certain that your heating apparatus and chimney installed according to the manufacturer's instructions and complies with local building codes.
- Review the listing of creosote germination causes higher up at What Determines the Charge per unit of Creosote Build-up in a Chimney? , and right the ones that affect your installation.
- Practice not use a chimney, wood stove, or coal stove in a domicile that is unfamiliar to you without first having the installation inspected for burn safety.
For example if you buy an existing home with a fireplace or woodstove installed, you should not use it earlier having had an initial chimney and fireplace or woodstove safe inspection.
- If y'all burn down wood more than than one time or twice a season, your chimney should be inspected and cleaned at least annually.
- Burning dry wood, periodically burning a hot fire, and other measures may reduce the rate of creosote buildup but there is no substitute for a careful and competent chimney inspection and cleaning.
- at CHIMNEY Fire ACTION / PREVENTION we provide more chimney fire safety communication expanded from data provided by the US CPSC.
There we also talk over the use of Chimflex™ fire extinguisher sticks and burn down extinguishers and nosotros outline what to do in the consequence of a chimney fire.
How Often Should the Chimney be Cleaned to Remove Creosote
It depends . .. on the atmospheric condition we described above, such as the amount of wood burned, the status of the wood and chimney and fire temperatures.
According to NFPA 211,
Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at to the lowest degree once a twelvemonth for soundness, freedom from deposits, and right clearances. Cleaning, maintenance, and repairs shall exist done if necessary". [four]
Merely depending on the creosote formation factors we described above, your chimney may need cleaning more frequently in order to be safe.
According to CSIA,
... open masonry fireplaces should be cleaned at 1/viii" of sooty building, and sooner if there is whatsoever glaze present in the system.
Manufacturing plant-built fireplaces should be cleaned when any appreciable buildup occurs. This is considered to be enough fuel buildup to cause a chimney burn down capable of damaging the chimney or spreading to the habitation. [3]
Nosotros note that "appreciable buildup" and "capable of damaging the chimney" are besides vague to guide a homeowner. The judgment of a chimney professional tin assist you in learning to recognize when your chimney needs cleaning.
How Creosote Deposits in Chimneys are Cleaned
Also seeCHIMNEY CLEANING PROCEDURE
Creosote deposits may be removed by using a stiff chimney castor if the deposits are sooty in grapheme. This is the easiest and best condition to handle.
Creosote deposits that are glazed and hard on the chimney walls tin be difficult to remove past may be removable using a powered mechanical castor.
Creosote deposits that are glutinous, oozy, "gummy" are very difficult to remove without a chemical treatment - chimney cleaning chemicals are not recommended by the CSIA.[iii]
The Chimney Safety Plant of America (CSIA), a not-profit, educational institution focused on the prevention of chimney and venting hazards, is concerned about the consumer use of chemic chimney cleaning products to the exclusion of conventional chimney inspections and cleaning.
These products oftentimes are promoted for their power to remove a portion of the creosote from a masonry or metal chimney interior through catalytic action when burned in a fireplace or wood stove.
The CSIA believes that the employ of these products lone is not an adequate substitute for mechanical chimney cleaning and inspection because information technology does not provide the same level of protection to the chimney arrangement. Electric current promotional claims for some of the products may be creating a simulated sense of security among consumers.[three]
We have observed that a "gummy" creosote deposit may harden when the chimney dries or is (advisedly) heated.
Watch out: we have also seen "chimney cleaning sticks" a loftier-temperature flare that is tossed into a fireplace or woodstove to "burn down off" the creosote. In our opinion yous're request for a chimney burn, and we would not rely on such products. Telephone call a professional, certified chimney sweep instead, or inquire for advice from your local burn department.
Watch out: creosote itself can touch on your health: it is a peel, eye, and respiratory irritant. Depending on the level and location of exposure creosote tin also act equally a carcinogen.[1][2]
Reader Comments & Q&A
Question: crusade of oily liquid leaking out of wood heater
(June xxx, 2022) A. Weido said:
Lately I noticed this nasty yellowish liquid dripping down the chimney, all around information technology pretty much, and it's non a lot. Maybe a few ounces make information technology to the floor of the basement, and await really yellow.
The liquid coming down the chimney is near viscid, it's similar sap almost, and in a few spots some has stale into a gummy trail just like sap along the exposed outside of the chimney in the basement. What could this be?
2017/02/15 Jon said:
I take a wood furnace. I loaded it upwards and titned it down before leaving the other nighttime then it would slow burn through the night.
When i got dorsum there was a black oily liquid everuwhere in the ground effectually it, on the back, dripping from the lower function of the dmoke exhause ventbright bu wjere you shut and open the vent and some on theninside of the door.
Could this exist from the kind of wood that was burned or something else... As well a different question, is it ok to leave the ash door open and close everything else (the smoke exhaust valve and the smoke bypass rod) really get information technology going and staying going if i sm effectually it and desire itbto really stay warm?
This question was posted originally at BACKDRAFTING HEATING EQUIPMENT
Reply: probably creosote from burning forest at a low temperature - likewise watch for beehives
A.W.
Sounds like dissolving creosote or chimney deposits. I've also seen such mess oozing out of chimneys after bees had made a honeycomb therein.
Jon,
Oily liquid from a wood-burning appliance is, particularly under the circumstances yous describe, most-likely creosote that has condensed in the forest-furnace flue and so leaked out of the system onto the floor beneath.
When you run a wood heating appliance very slowly the flue is libation and the condensation rate of creosote increases.
See if y'all can spot where the creosote liquid was leaking out onto the flooring, as it might also be that your flue sections or chimney sections are installed upside down. Usually the female end of each department faces "up" so small amounts of condensate drain back into the heater rather than leaking out at the department joints.
Watch out: aggregating of creosote in a chimney can result in a very dangerous chimney burn down if later a hot burn down ignites the creosote in the flue. A certified chimney sweep tin tell yous the status and condom of your chimney and flue.
Yes the type and condition of forest is a cistron in creosote production; particularly, green wood that has more than sap content produces more than creosote.
Research on the production of creosote from burning wood:
- Baker, A. J. "WOOD FUEL Properties and FUEL PRODUCTS FROM Forest" [PDF] In Proc. Fuel Wood Management and Utilization Seminar, pp. 14-25. 1982. Retrieved 2022/02/15 original source: www.fpl.fs.fed.the states/documnts/pdf1983/baker83a.pdf
- Ramdahl, Thomas, Ingrid Alfheim, Ståle Rustad, and Torbjørn Olsen. "Chemical and biological label of emissions from minor residential stoves called-for wood and charcoal." Chemosphere 11, no. six (1982): 601-611.
- Lee, Robert GM, Peter Coleman, Joanne L. Jones, Kevin C. Jones, and Rainer Lohmann. "Emission factors and importance of PCDD/Fs, PCBs, PCNs, PAHs and PM10 from the domestic called-for of coal and wood in the Great britain." Ecology science & technology 39, no. vi (2005): 1436-1447.
Excerpt from Baker whose commodity appears in a USFPL PDF
Unburned volatiles resulting from incomplete combustion of wood tin can cause a big loss in efficiency. These volatiles are too a source of trouble in stoves and furnaces because of the creosote, tarry substances, and acerb they incorporate.
To burn down these volatiles, sufficient air must be supplied around or over the fuel bed. This air must be mixed with the volatiles while they are yet hotter than l,lOO°F and accept not come up in contact with cooling surfaces.
Theoretically, it takes 6 pounds of air to burn one pound of oven-dried woods, but actually more than air is required considering the air and volatiles are not thoroughly mixed. (Bakery 1982)
...
Continue reading at CHIMNEY Burn Activeness / PREVENTION or select a topic from the closely-related articles beneath, or see the consummate ARTICLE Index.
Or see CHIMNEY CREOSOTE FAQs - questions and answers posted originally on this folio
Or see these
Fireplace & Woodstove Articles
- CHIMNEY CLEANING PROCEDURES
- CHIMNEY FIRE Action / PREVENTION
- COMBUSTION AIR REQUIREMENTS
- CREOSOTE FIRE HAZARDS
- CREOSOTE HAZARDS
- Burn down CLEARANCES INDOORS
- FIRE CLEARANCES, Metallic CHIMNEYS
- Burn CLEARANCES, WOOD COAL & PELLET STOVES
- Fire DAMAGED BUILDINGS
- WOOD STOVE Functioning & SAFETY
Suggested citation for this web folio
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